When I
was asked to go to Vang Vieng, Laos, I was less than enthusiastic about
it. I knew it had once been the party
capital of Southeast Asia, but had read that it had died down a lot since then. But still, that really wasn’t the type of
scene I was looking for. But my
girlfriend at the time really wanted to experience the tubing and, being from
Texas, it’s hard to pass up a good tubing experience.
During
its ‘heyday,’ Vang Vieng was the Party Capital of Southeast Asia, where the parties
raged all night and alcohol and drugs (which are illegal in Laos) flowed
freely. Every year more and more backpackers
came to this small town, and every year they acted foolishly, resulting in an
average of 24 deaths annually from drinking, drugs, or jumping into the shallow
river. When the deaths became
international news in 2012, the Laos government stepped in and shut down the
tubing and parties.
When officials,
a year later, allowed tubing again, it was done with more stringent rules. Now, only three bars can be open at once along
the river, and there are no more river swings, drugs, or dangerous activities. There is also a midnight curfew now, so the
party doesn’t rage all night.
Today,
Vang Vieng is an echo of what it once was.
The new Vang Vieng still retains some of the old ways. A few of the old iconic bars still cater to
the backpacking crowds with free drinks before 9 and a party till midnight. With this you still see a bunch of backpackers
coming to drink and socialize, but it’s not in the throngs it was before.
Tubing still exists, but it is a
lot tamer than it used to be. When we went
it was just us and two more tourists that floated. They also made us wear life jackets and we
were accompanied by a guide in a boat to make sure we didn’t die. The float was nice, but the river was fast
and we were at the end of the float very quickly. During the float you could see the old bars
and swings that lined river before, but they were all closed now.
With tubing’s decline, people finally
take part in other activities in the area. Nowadays, Vang Vieng tries to market itself as
an eco-adventure destination. Focusing on
exploring the dozens of local caves and relaxing in swimming holes. A lot of tour operators now offer kayaking
tours, zip-lining adventures, and full-day hikes around the mountains. The new Vang Vieng is working to be the city
it always should have been. It’s trying
hard to shed its old reputation and attract a better-quality traveler.
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